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I want the factory hitch. Can I do this install myself? I can’t seem to find what parts come in the kit. The dealer is not helping me. Can I order this online opposed for buying from my local dealer?
 

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I bought from https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/

I have a 2015 QX60 but a family member has a 2019 QX60.

For the 2019 QX60 you need:

01125-N032U - bolts - need quantity 10
51170-3KA0A - hitch
999T8-XZ000 - wire harness
999T5-R4190 - Finisher

Including shipping and tax it cost around $475
 

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I bought from https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/

I have a 2015 QX60 but a family member has a 2019 QX60.

For the 2019 QX60 you need:

01125-N032U - bolts - need quantity 10
51170-3KA0A - hitch
999T8-XZ000 - wire harness
999T5-R4190 - finisher

Including shipping and tax it cost around $475
Just completed installing the above (second install since I did the same for my 2015). Here are my comments on the job:

- It is a lot of work, doable but a lot of work - took me around 5+ hours.

- I suspect if you own a torque wrench you know your way around a car and it is a good indication that you can do this.

- Having molding removal tools is definitely a plus so as not to scratch the plastic molding pieces you have to remove to install the wiring harness.

- The two 10MM (16mm long) wire harness bracket bolts are missing. You can use one of the three storage floor screws that you remove to get to the harness location to take to the hardware store as an example as the threads are the same for the wire harness bracket.

- The wire harness kit comes with two relays that go into one of the fuse boxes under the hood behind the headlights. When I went to install them there were already the exact two relays so now I have two extras.

- I used a Dremel tool to cut the rear facia and it went well just go slow.

- It helps a lot to have someone hold up the hitch on one side while you are attaching the other side. The thing is pretty heavy.

- Make sure you plug the receptacle latch cap into the hitch before lifting and bolting the hitch into place because the finishing piece hole is not big enough for the insertion of the receptacle at 90 degrees which is required to turn it into place. This assumes that you attached the finisher piece before bolting on the hitch which was recommended in the instructions. If you attached the finisher last then this is not a big deal either way.

- Good luck, got a few sore muscles today!
 

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By the way for anyone attempting to install hitch I built wooden ramp which help elevate the car about 8” made huge difference getting under and working comfortably. I had bought two 2x10 pressure treated planks for it. It probably cost about the same as the plastic ones sold on amazon but I found mine way more sturdier than plastic, plus some so the reviews of those plastic ones weren’t too good. There are some YouTube how to videos if anyone is interested in making his/her own.
 

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I bought a demo 2017 with no hitch. I bolted on an aftermarket, the wiring is right there in back to connect up. I lose a little ground clearance in back since my hitch sits at the bottom of the bumper vs a cut out. About $150 total. And yes you can buy all the parts necessary to bolt on a factory hitch!!
 

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Cowtown Dave: Did you test the wiring To see if it works? Not sure it will work without installing the wiring harness kit that goes with the factory hitch. ����*♂
 

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Factory hitch is best option, beware vehicles with hands free lift gate option, but don't believe the install instructions for the hands free lift gate option install!!!.
I also purchased all the parts from infinitpartsdeal.com, purchased on a sale in December 2019, and paid under $350 for all components, hitch, finisher and wiring harness kit. I purchased this for a used 2017 QX60 with the intention of an easy install based on everything I read. I started the install and was ready to cut the rear fascia, but looked under the bumper prior to cutting, and to my surprise, this vehicle was equipped with the hands free lift gate option, which the dealer was not aware of and did not mention during the buying process. The presence of the kick sensor mounted under the rear fascia ends up being right where the cut is required to do install, so the install instructions get much more complicated and expensive since the instruction called for a new kick sensor part which cost over $500!!! The install requires complete removal of rear fascia, removal of original sensor, reinstall of fascia, cutting of template on fascia, removal of rear fascia again for install of new kick sensor, then re-install of fascia to continue install. My local dealership quoted me $2,000+ for install based on this vehicle option package!!!
I spent several months and attempts to be comfortable with the idea of cutting the bumper and then being able to complete the install so as not to have a QX60 with a big hole in the rear bumper. We were not 100% concerned with possible loss of the hands free option, since we didn't know we had it anyway, but of course ideal outcome was for it to still work. I also preferred not to have to remove the rear fascia, since this can be tricky to re-install with no issues or rattles.
I finally came up with a solution and finished the install over the past 2 nights (had to stop install to buy a tap from auto store next morning). Here is a summary of my solution and some advise from what I learned.
- The main hurdle was protecting the wires and the kick sensor assembly during cutting of the rear fascia while still on the vehicle. I achieve this by removing the 4 clips holding the bottom of the sensor to the fascia, and used short bungee cords to tie sensor assembly up off the fascia surface, you only need 2 to 3 inches clearance. This will allow cutting of bottom of bumper without contacting the sensor. For the upper cut section on the bumper, I went to Home Depot and bought 4x 5"x7" metal flashing pieces at $0.50/ea. From under the bumper push these flashing pieces up between the kick sensor and the inside surface of the fascia. This protected the sensor during the cutting process of the upper cut. I also moved these flashing pieces to the end for drill and cutting of the side cuts and the side slots. Use a dremel/rotary cutter with the bit depth set to cut just the depth of the template and fascia thickness to also help assure not cutting too deep.
The ideal outcome- cut was perfect, took some time, but no damage to sensor assembly, and THE HANDS FREE OPTION STILL WORKS AFTER COMPLETE INSTALL USING THE ORIGINAL SENSOR SAVING $500+!!
  • Before starting install, get a M12-1.25 tap ($6.99 at O'Reily Auto) and tap wrench to chase out the frame bolt holes prior to lifting hitch into place. Mine were rusted and filled with debris from several years of exposure to the elements.
  • Install the 7 PIN TOW CONNECTOR (STANDARD BARREL TYPE) onto the hitch mounting flange prior to install the hitch onto the vehicle if you have already completed the hitch finisher install. Also my connector rotated clockwise to lock onto the flange not counter clockwise as shown in the instructions.
Great looking hitch, but it does take some work and patience to do it right!! If you have any questions, please ask.
 
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