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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning on doing my own oil changes, and any maintenance that can be DIY to my 2015 Infinity QX60 Hybrid. Has anyone out there done any maintenance themselves that can give me some pointers. My first problem is trying to understand the owners manual ambiguity specially with synthetic oil. Also the TPMS is hard to understand if all the QX60's have the pressure sensor that tells you when the tire pressure is correct or is that on higher end models? Just turned 550 miles, please help.
 

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I'm with you. I only have about 300 miles but already thinking about maintenance and what's needed.


This is my first brand new car, is there anything I need to do to "break it in". I heard to "break it in" it's best to drive in the city and at various speeds (not 60mph on highway for 45mins as I've been doing). This concept of "breaking it in" seems weird to me though. Should I be treating it like a brand new cell phone battery (letting it totally die before I charge it backup the 1st few times).


Also is there specific synthetic engine oil we are suppose to use? I've always used 5W30 Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic, will this one be good?


I heard Amoil mentioned a few times, is this one best?


How often does CVT transmission oil need to be changed?


Does everyone use premium 92 unleaded, or does anyone use something lower? Affect performance? I know Infiniti recommends 92 but isn't required.
 

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I don't think people break cars in anymore. The motor has already been released in millions of other Nissan/Infiniti cars, this isn't some new technology. This vehicle was meant to be driven and enjoyed.

Also, synthetic oils are for excessively long periods between oil changes. If you plan to stick with the "manufacturer defined" oil change schedules, save your money. I quote "manufacturer defined" because the engineers that built the vehicle don't recommend synthetic.

Personally, I use regular octane. Octane is an energy retardant, so I'll only get ~98% of the stated horsepower since the motor is managing detonations in a more conservative way. I haven't seen any issues, however this is really up to you since the manufacturer does "recommend" premium. Personally, I don't push the vehicle so don't need 100% of the horsepower.

I can't find a recommended CVT oil change schedule and the dealer didn't have one (last time I asked about it). I'm curious to hear if others have heard anything.
 

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CVT fluid is lifetime of the CVT and one should not ever drain it it change it if you believe the manuals. Changing it could void the warranty if the failure could be caused by improper levels or type of fluid used, for example.

Otherwise, choice of fuel and oil is yours, but yeller's comments are spot on, in my opinion.
 

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Thank you very much yeller & bsnguy. This helps a lot. I just fueled up for the first time on Friday and chose to go with Premium 92 @ Shell. Eventually I'll probably shift to regular 87, if there is minimal impact to fuel economy and performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My experience tells me to break in a new vehicle engine you need to go at least 1000 miles, not rev it hard but that doesn't mean you can't drive it fast, just do it conservatively, not for prolonged hard accelerations, most new engines don't require too much of a break in, but if you are going to use synthetic oil, it is highly recommended to go 1000 miles on the oil from factory, since this is almost like a break-in oil. The reason for this is so that the rings around the pistons seat properly, in other words, they need to wear just enough to get then to make the best seal possible. Synthetic oils specially Amsoil, recommend it cause if you don't you'll be using oil since synthetic's properties of adhesion will leave a film of oil that the seals if not seated properly will not clean back and then the oil will be burned up in the combustion stroke. Is not much but every little bit causes the oil consumption to be high and you'll be adding half to a quart of oil to your engine a month. The other reason is synthetic's other property of protection, in other words it will not let any part of the engine wear, due to its high film strength, it will not let the rings wear so that's why break-ins are needed. I tried to make the explanation as simple as possible but is hard to put into just a few words. I'm an Amsoil dealer and have worked on cars for at almost 40 years. I have experienced everything I say first hand from my own clients, and have some incredible stories to tell. (In future write ups)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lets now talk about octane, the reason Infiniti recommends 92 octane is not to get better gas mileage only, its so that the car runs properly due to its compression rating. The 3.5 Liter V6 has a compression rate of approximately 10.3:1. What that means is that to have this engine run optimally, it needs high octane 92 grade gasoline, why you ask? Because the higher the octane the less prone to detonation and less prone to breaking. What do I mean by breaking? well if the engine is detonating or exploding inside the cylinder block before it has to, then you have all kind of problems caused by that such as the exhaust and intake valves not being at the right height or open or still closed and then where does the exhaust gas go that is prematurely exploded? It breaks things. That's one of the causes of future engine failure. Not to say what it does to many of the electronic sensors, pistons, seals, crankshaft, ETC. The higher the octane the more compression the gas can handle, basically it takes longer for it to burn prematurely. So when someone tells you that I use higher octane to burn better it doesn't mean to burn faster, the power comes when it burns at the correct time due to the engineering design that the engine has.
 

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Marlon, everything you said about octane and early detonation is true, but today's cars (even cheap entry cars) are designed to manage against pings or delayed detonations to avoid damage. Nissan builds these motors around the world and only a handful of countries actually publish figures. In addition, of the ones that do, ratings are all over the place.

For example Europe uses 98, Japan uses 100, Mexico uses 97, Saudi Arabia uses 91. The 3.5 liter motor in our QX's takes what it has and makes the best of it, whether the octane is too high or too low.

Coming back to blackqxs original question, the answer is really up up to you. If 92 octane lets you sleep better at night, then stick with 92.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you say that using synthetic oil will void the warranty, then I say using the wrong octane of gas does also. Infiniti sells these vehicles for the North American continent where the gas octane ratings are stable enough to use as an indicator, I'm not telling anyone what to do I'm just stating facts that anyone can use to make an informed decision. As you say "the answer is really up to you"
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Transmission Fluid – Automatic or
Manual, Differential Oil, Transfer
Case Oil
Visually inspectfor signs of leakage at
specified intervals.
If towing a trailer, using a camper or
car-top carrier, or driving on rough or
muddy roads, replace the transmission
fluid/oil at every:
● 20,000 miles or 24 months.
● 30,000 miles for QX60 Hybrid
Electronic Vehicle (HEV).
● 60,000 miles for QX60 (except
HEV) CVT fluid.
● 7-speed automatic transmission
fluid if maintenance free.

This is taken directly from the recommended maintenance pamphlet that comes with the QX60's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As you can see all the CVT's need to have maintenance at some point, only the 7-speed automatic transmission fluid that comes with the QX80's, is maintenance free, because its synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
STANDARD MAINTENANCE
❑ Replace engine oil and filter
❑ Replace engine air filter
❑ Replace in-cabin microfilter
❑ Replace CVT Fluid (QX60 Hybrid Electronic Vehicle (HEV)4
❑ Lubricate Propeller shaft grease (for QX80 4WD)1
❑ Rotate tires (refer to page 11 for exceptions)
❑ Inspect the following:
__ Automatic transmission fluid2
__ Brake lines & cables __ Brake calipers, pads, rotors __ Brake light & cruise control switches3
__ CVT fluid __ Differential oil __ Drive shaft boots (4WD/AWD) __ Manual transmission oil __ Propeller shaft (4WD/AWD/RWD) __ Transfer case oil (4WD/AWD)

Again taken from the maintenance pamphlet.
 

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Indeed, the hybrid is different than the non- hybrid. Sorry for the misinformation (and as a fellow hybrid owner, I'm ashamed I didn't know this!)
 

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Great Insight! Thank you all very much, I really appreciate it. It sounds like 92 is the way to go, at least if I want a better night's sleep.
 

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What's the final verdict for non-hybrid CVT fluid changes?

Previous posts seem to start with "visually inspect", specific to hybrid, or "If towing a trailer..."
 
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