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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Great , looks like this thread finally got attention and people do care about this car đźš— . I personally want to keep this car for some more time , maybe another 50k miles or so up to 200k .We do have 2 infinities and one electric VW id.4 but this car is a great cruiser going long trips ! The car is great I have full tech pkg , cinema pkg and all options for 2013. Also installed Radar detector , Front and back cameras , headup display and more . A lot of modern cars don't have even half options my car has so one of the reasons to keep it and upgrade / fix whatever is needed . My washer tank just failed with -10f outside so bought new oem tank , need to replace it asap !
 
I’ve replaced my JX35 rear struts a while back, an easy job since it’s easy disassemble, but my front struts are original at 155k miles.

I’m curious, my front lower control arm bushings are cracked and need to be replaced. Since our vehicles are the same year, were your bushings in good shape? I’m thinking the front strut AND control arm are in the same area so they can be knocked out at the same time.

Given your experiences, any concerns with this approach?
 
I’ve replaced my JX35 rear struts a while back, an easy job since it’s easy disassemble, but my front struts are original at 155k miles.

I’m curious, my front lower control arm bushings are cracked and need to be replaced. Since our vehicles are the same year, were your bushings in good shape? I’m thinking the front strut AND control arm are in the same area so they can be knocked out at the same time.

Given your experiences, any concerns with this approach?
If you mean the rubber around the bushings, my understanding is that it looks cracked after a couple of years in most cases, but that does not mean it is compromised or needs to be replaced. I saw surface cracks on mine, but it appeared intact. Front strut replacement was pretty easy, took maybe 90 minutes per side. But I had an extra bottle jack to lift the whole assembly up to take off the tension so I could undo the sway bar link arms (they are cheap and easy to replace, if not rusted too badly. Cut them off rather than fight with them), and then the new Munroe struts were a bit longer, it seemed, so had to pry down the wheel assy to get the bolts in, then jack it up again with the bottle jack to get the sway bar links arms back in. Just watch the orientation of the top of the strut, there is a rubber tab that has to be oriented wrt the vehicle (facing outward, I believe)
 
BTW, get an alignment done after - the new springs lift up the front end and mess up the camber, seemed fine on dry pavement but was like trying to tame a squirrel on snow or ice. Did struts, sway bar bushings and links, drives like a new vehicle again.
 
If you mean the rubber around the bushings...
Here are pics from my lower control arms. The rubber's cracked but I don't think it's critical (dealer wants $1.8k to replace both). The process to pull this apart is pretty involved so I figured replacing front struts at the same time would save me from having to pull it apart again.

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BTW, get an alignment done after - the new springs lift up the front end and mess up the camber, seemed fine on dry pavement but was like trying to tame a squirrel on snow or ice. Did struts, sway bar bushings and links, drives like a new vehicle again.
Good point, thanks.
 
Those look like surface cracks to me, same as mine, and lots of others that I have seen - I would not bother replacing them. Do some googling, unless the crack is deep and separating, it is still intact. But up to you.
 
Those look like surface cracks to me, same as mine, and lots of others that I have seen - I would not bother replacing them. Do some googling, unless the crack is deep and separating, it is still intact. But up to you.

Steering is pretty tight so it's not a big concern, and I agree... I'll wait a bit. Thanks for the feedback.
 
2014 with 173K miles getting front struts replaced for the first time, for $1,5K by dealer . Symptoms presented , front clunking while turning at slow speed, nothing standing still or at high speed. Rear shocks still original
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Here are pics from my lower control arms. The rubber's cracked but I don't think it's critical (dealer wants $1.8k to replace both). The process to pull this apart is pretty involved so I figured replacing front struts at the same time would save me from having to pull it apart again.

View attachment 6624

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I saw video with this entire process of replacing 3 lags control arms
Yes its not a simple task but it can be done, your look OK , no need to do anything
First to replace sway bars / bushing , second outer tie rods . These are lasting 200k easy !!!

P.S here we go - control arm replace on
2013 Nissan Pathfinder |JX35|QX60| lower control Arm replacement

 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
BTW, get an alignment done after - the new springs lift up the front end and mess up the camber, seemed fine on dry pavement but was like trying to tame a squirrel on snow or ice. Did struts, sway bar bushings and links, drives like a new vehicle again.
Yes i did alignment after all
Congratulations ! its like a new car today haha
 
Discussion starter · #36 · (Edited)
Fellas so my car has 140k++ miles as of now and all started from AC stopped working ha !
Did a software check and all is engaged so all was fine .
Tried to add some AC Refrigerants but no luck !
AC was working fine for like 5-10 min and then all cold air just gone !
After some research and AC leak verification on my car i ended up with a new Valeo OEM AC compressor
This is not a simple process , - u will need to remove old compressor, remove all transportation oil from the new compressor , install a new compressor,
vacuum entire system for 1h , be sure that no more AC leaks and a new compressor fixed it . Then u will need to add 8oz PAG Oil refrigerant into the system
first . Dont worry it will be distributed by itself to all components ! And last u will need to add 134a refrigerant into the system
So i know the theory but still I am in process to do it in practice , all help on this topic is appreciated !


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Discussion starter · #37 · (Edited)
So parked my car for entire month now LOL

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when looking for AC compressor came up with the list of thing in to do list :
Replaced Valve Cover gasket - DONE !
Just did a front as it was leaking the most , no power left to do it for the rear and its **** as complicated so this can wait and also no major leaks on this side
Cant comment on a quality but i did a test and no more leak so this one was good

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Discussion starter · #38 · (Edited)
Next started to check under the car and found transmission to radiator oil line leaks ... not fun !
I finally replaced the rubber lines and also replaced OEM clamps ( they are NOT good after 7-10 years ) to some aftermarket clamps
No more transmission oil leaks ! DONE !

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When i am there replaced my Radiator Fan Assembly on 150k miles
It was a time to do it ! Too much noise !

Picked up from ebay TYC made in Taiwan looks like a good value !

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Discussion starter · #39 ·
Next
My oil pan is rusted ! I mean heavily rusted so no oil leak YET but i better replace it when i am here right ?

This can be aftermarket staff so got some from amazon :

Oil pan
Oil Pan gasket
Oil pan Gasket removal tool
NOT done yet !

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Discussion starter · #40 · (Edited)
Its NOT all for a car with almost 150k miles which still drive like a new ha

Oil Cooler Coolant line ... what the heck is this crap right ?

Its rusted as **** so if u dont want your Coolant gone and engine overheated u better do it as well
Its on the left side where AC compressor and to be able to remove AC compressor u will need to remove this line anywhere so ...
I got OEM and cost me like $45
not YET installed !!!

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