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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This problem had 3 times to me so far in a week:

Last Saturday:
1) Got off freeway
2) As I need the red light which was uphill, I touch the accelerator only to find that it doesn't work.
3) Moved the car to the side with the moving speed left. Tried both D(drive) and R(reverse), none worked. Put into P(park) and the accelerator worked.
4) Thought it would be some minor issue and to restart the car, only to find it doesn't start up. The car does crank(i.e. puts in the sound as if it wants to start but that battery is dead).
5) AAA came over and checked battery to say it was dead.
6) Gave a jump start and disconnected in few seconds. This consisted of attaching to their portable battery thing and starting my car.
7) Was able to drive back home safely (20miles)

Monday:
1) Took to dealership(5miles) and got the 60k service done(at 65k). Asked them to check for this problem.
2) They ran the diagnosis and reported they don't see any error codes except some which were battery related and old. I think they drove a few miles to test the car (per the fuel empty estimation mileage)
3) Drove for about 25miles and parked car.
4) Returned in 2hours, reversed the car, pushed the accelerator a bit to move it forward since it was in parking structure.
5) The 2nd push of accelerator didn't work, and so I had to park the car again. Repeated with same results from #1st time -> Steps 3 and 4
6) Had a jump start from a Truck (was told it has 2 batteries and so heavy duty). The jump start consisted of just attaching the cables and starting my car without having to start the other car.
7) Returned home safely (20miles).
8) Went to dealership (5miles) next day and asked them to check.
9) Dealership ran the diagnosis again and said they found no issues. They said they checked for battery, alternator and other things (not sure what all)

Today:
1) Been testing voltage before and after drives for the past few days. Always been showing 12.7V+ before start and 14V+ after start.
2) Drove for 20 + 20 mile round trip
3) 30mins break
4) Drove for 5+ 4.9 miles at which point the acceleration didn't work again. (Didn't test for voltages this time since I was in a hurry)
5) I checked to ensure that none of the maintenance lights came up (like battery, PS, check engine etc).
6) AC started to slow down after a bit
7) Parked car on the side, tried R and D - didn't work.
8) Engine revved on P, so I tried to drive again - it moved for a few feet with slow acceleration that hit up for a few seconds and then lost acceleration again.
9) Stopped the car and gave jump start with the Costco jump started (8000 mAh) for 5seconds( since the car was in the middle of the road). Car moved for a few feet and lost the acceleration again.
10) This time, I put it into P (from the experience of step #8) and revved the engine a little longer (like 30seconds?) -> then drove the car for the 0.1 mile to home.
11) Stopped the car at home, lifted hood and measured voltage to be 12.06V
12) Started the car and saw the voltage to be 13.7V
13) Stopped ac, then the car - thinking that the voltage wasn't over 14V because the car didn't run for a longer time after jump start.
14) Saw voltage to be 13V+.
15) Came back after 5mins or so, since 13V was a suspicious number -> noted that it now showed 12.73V



I am assuming that the battery and alternator are fine, and that perhaps it is related to the electronic controllers not letting battery to get charged
- I am not sure if the QX60 transmission issue about which we were mailed about might cause this to happen. Dealership did say that they tested for it to be transmission related when I went for the service+checkup.

Any help or suggestions to help me find and fix the problem would be really helpful and appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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How old is the battery? Is it the correct size? When I replaced my battery a few years ago I assumed the dealership would sell me the correct size. I was wrong. Things started going wrong only after a couple of years. I didn't have the symptoms you have but the vehicle wouldn't start, the alarm would go off at night. The battery was totally undersized and when it got weak things started going wrong. When I finally replaced it with the correct size the car is ok.
Don't assume the battery is ok.
 

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This problem had 3 times to me so far in a week:

Last Saturday:
1) Got off freeway
2) As I need the red light which was uphill, I touch the accelerator only to find that it doesn't work.
3) Moved the car to the side with the moving speed left. Tried both D(drive) and R(reverse), none worked. Put into P(park) and the accelerator worked.
4) Thought it would be some minor issue and to restart the car, only to find it doesn't start up. The car does crank(i.e. puts in the sound as if it wants to start but that battery is dead).
5) AAA came over and checked battery to say it was dead.
6) Gave a jump start and disconnected in few seconds. This consisted of attaching to their portable battery thing and starting my car.
7) Was able to drive back home safely (20miles)

Monday:
1) Took to dealership(5miles) and got the 60k service done(at 65k). Asked them to check for this problem.
2) They ran the diagnosis and reported they don't see any error codes except some which were battery related and old. I think they drove a few miles to test the car (per the fuel empty estimation mileage)
3) Drove for about 25miles and parked car.
4) Returned in 2hours, reversed the car, pushed the accelerator a bit to move it forward since it was in parking structure.
5) The 2nd push of accelerator didn't work, and so I had to park the car again. Repeated with same results from #1st time -> Steps 3 and 4
6) Had a jump start from a Truck (was told it has 2 batteries and so heavy duty). The jump start consisted of just attaching the cables and starting my car without having to start the other car.
7) Returned home safely (20miles).
8) Went to dealership (5miles) next day and asked them to check.
9) Dealership ran the diagnosis again and said they found no issues. They said they checked for battery, alternator and other things (not sure what all)

Today:
1) Been testing voltage before and after drives for the past few days. Always been showing 12.7V+ before start and 14V+ after start.
2) Drove for 20 + 20 mile round trip
3) 30mins break
4) Drove for 5+ 4.9 miles at which point the acceleration didn't work again. (Didn't test for voltages this time since I was in a hurry)
5) I checked to ensure that none of the maintenance lights came up (like battery, PS, check engine etc).
6) AC started to slow down after a bit
7) Parked car on the side, tried R and D - didn't work.
8) Engine revved on P, so I tried to drive again - it moved for a few feet with slow acceleration that hit up for a few seconds and then lost acceleration again.
9) Stopped the car and gave jump start with the Costco jump started (8000 mAh) for 5seconds( since the car was in the middle of the road). Car moved for a few feet and lost the acceleration again.
10) This time, I put it into P (from the experience of step #8) and revved the engine a little longer (like 30seconds?) -> then drove the car for the 0.1 mile to home.
11) Stopped the car at home, lifted hood and measured voltage to be 12.06V
12) Started the car and saw the voltage to be 13.7V
13) Stopped ac, then the car - thinking that the voltage wasn't over 14V because the car didn't run for a longer time after jump start.
14) Saw voltage to be 13V+.
15) Came back after 5mins or so, since 13V was a suspicious number -> noted that it now showed 12.73V



I am assuming that the battery and alternator are fine, and that perhaps it is related to the electronic controllers not letting battery to get charged
- I am not sure if the QX60 transmission issue about which we were mailed about might cause this to happen. Dealership did say that they tested for it to be transmission related when I went for the service+checkup.

Any help or suggestions to help me find and fix the problem would be really helpful and appreciated.

Thanks!
This happened to my 2017. Backed it out of the driveway, dead. Jumped it worked until I could get back in the garage. Had it towed to the dealers and they replaced a defective electronic module. I’m not sure the exact name of it, I don’t think it was the ecu, but might have been.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This happened to my 2017. Backed it out of the driveway, dead. Jumped it worked until I could get back in the garage. Had it towed to the dealers and they replaced a defective electronic module. I’m not sure the exact name of it, I don’t think it was the ecu, but might have been.
Thank you very much. This helps - I will get my electrical modules check out again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How old is the battery? Is it the correct size? When I replaced my battery a few years ago I assumed the dealership would sell me the correct size. I was wrong. Things started going wrong only after a couple of years. I didn't have the symptoms you have but the vehicle wouldn't start, the alarm would go off at night. The battery was totally undersized and when it got weak things started going wrong. When I finally replaced it with the correct size the car is ok.
Don't assume the battery is ok.
Battery hasnt been replaced since i bought it (2019 as a used car).
 

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This problem had 3 times to me so far in a week:

Last Saturday:
1) Got off freeway
2) As I need the red light which was uphill, I touch the accelerator only to find that it doesn't work.
3) Moved the car to the side with the moving speed left. Tried both D(drive) and R(reverse), none worked. Put into P(park) and the accelerator worked.
4) Thought it would be some minor issue and to restart the car, only to find it doesn't start up. The car does crank(i.e. puts in the sound as if it wants to start but that battery is dead).
5) AAA came over and checked battery to say it was dead.
6) Gave a jump start and disconnected in few seconds. This consisted of attaching to their portable battery thing and starting my car.
7) Was able to drive back home safely (20miles)

Monday:
1) Took to dealership(5miles) and got the 60k service done(at 65k). Asked them to check for this problem.
2) They ran the diagnosis and reported they don't see any error codes except some which were battery related and old. I think they drove a few miles to test the car (per the fuel empty estimation mileage)
3) Drove for about 25miles and parked car.
4) Returned in 2hours, reversed the car, pushed the accelerator a bit to move it forward since it was in parking structure.
5) The 2nd push of accelerator didn't work, and so I had to park the car again. Repeated with same results from #1st time -> Steps 3 and 4
6) Had a jump start from a Truck (was told it has 2 batteries and so heavy duty). The jump start consisted of just attaching the cables and starting my car without having to start the other car.
7) Returned home safely (20miles).
8) Went to dealership (5miles) next day and asked them to check.
9) Dealership ran the diagnosis again and said they found no issues. They said they checked for battery, alternator and other things (not sure what all)

Today:
1) Been testing voltage before and after drives for the past few days. Always been showing 12.7V+ before start and 14V+ after start.
2) Drove for 20 + 20 mile round trip
3) 30mins break
4) Drove for 5+ 4.9 miles at which point the acceleration didn't work again. (Didn't test for voltages this time since I was in a hurry)
5) I checked to ensure that none of the maintenance lights came up (like battery, PS, check engine etc).
6) AC started to slow down after a bit
7) Parked car on the side, tried R and D - didn't work.
8) Engine revved on P, so I tried to drive again - it moved for a few feet with slow acceleration that hit up for a few seconds and then lost acceleration again.
9) Stopped the car and gave jump start with the Costco jump started (8000 mAh) for 5seconds( since the car was in the middle of the road). Car moved for a few feet and lost the acceleration again.
10) This time, I put it into P (from the experience of step #8) and revved the engine a little longer (like 30seconds?) -> then drove the car for the 0.1 mile to home.
11) Stopped the car at home, lifted hood and measured voltage to be 12.06V
12) Started the car and saw the voltage to be 13.7V
13) Stopped ac, then the car - thinking that the voltage wasn't over 14V because the car didn't run for a longer time after jump start.
14) Saw voltage to be 13V+.
15) Came back after 5mins or so, since 13V was a suspicious number -> noted that it now showed 12.73V



I am assuming that the battery and alternator are fine, and that perhaps it is related to the electronic controllers not letting battery to get charged
- I am not sure if the QX60 transmission issue about which we were mailed about might cause this to happen. Dealership did say that they tested for it to be transmission related when I went for the service+checkup.

Any help or suggestions to help me find and fix the problem would be really helpful and appreciated.

Thanks!
Did you ever get your problem fixed. I am experiencing the same thing. Dealership replaced my transmission and one day later, I started to have these identical problems. They are telling me it's my alternator. I don't agree.
 

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Did you ever get your problem fixed. I am experiencing the same thing. Dealership replaced my transmission and one day later, I started to have these identical problems. They are telling me it's my alternator. I don't agree.
Dealer told me the same thing. Alternator, I didn’t want to believe it was but they showed voltage readings which kind of made sense. Been 2 months now with a new alternator and haven’t had a problem yet. Hope you can get yours fixed
 
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